BRITTANY - the third week

Mon 16^th

We didn’t get going very early as we were kept chatting by our neigbours who hailed from Wales, so first drove as far as Locronan.  It was a pretty little town with lots of souvenir shops and creperies and biscuiteries. Everywhere had hanging baskets and pots outside – I guess they were competing for the flower competition. Once more the rain started coming down, but luckily we found a marvellous glass-making studio and stood watching plates and vases being made, for ages. Leaving about 3.00pm we headed for the aire at Audierne which was right by the river in a huge car park with lots of buses and more motorhome.  Our little section went German-English-French-English-Dutch-English, quite a multi-cultural gathering. We had a mosey around the port and looked in some very expensive shops, mostly shut as it was Monday! We found a 3* Hotel with 5* menu outside, so went back to the van for our own plate of salad.  It was a bit showery by then so stayed in for the rest of the evening.  31 miles today

 

Tues 17^th

The less said the better. It rained all  night, it rained all day and was chilly as well. So we stayed where we were as it was free and played cards, read books, did crosswords etc. and got thoroughly bored.

Weds 18^th

53 miles today – we are getting adventurous!  It was still a damp morning but not as bad as yesterday and we thought we would go to the Pointe du Raz (which is equivalent to Land’s End in France) in other words the most westerly point.  We arrived at a visitor centre and car park and shock, horror had to pay 6 euros for the privilege of parking! The first time we had come across that.  It was then a 20 minute walk along a stony cliff-top path right to the point. It was ruggedly beautiful and also blowing a gale but well worth the trek. We found a slightly easier route back to the centre and read all the information boards there about the area. Again there were the inevitable souvenir stalls.

From there we drove to Pont-L’Abbe to find the LeClerc supermarket, which sold LPG and had an aire, but we did not really like the look of the 5 spaces at the back end of the car park with everyone coming and going so after going in for a bit of foodie shopping we headed off to the lighthouse at Eckmuhl. This was right down on the ground at sea level so of course was pretty tall – the tallest in Europe supposedly. There was a lovely parking area alongside with lots of motorhomes already parked up so we joined them thinking it would be a good place for the night.  Then we found “no motorhomes between 19.00hrs and 07.00hrs” signs all over the place.  What a swizz! After a look around, in the sun!!!! we went a bit further back around the coast and found an aire almost on the beach in amongst the sand dunes at Kerity.  There was already one German van there, otherwise it was deserted. We had the most beautiful sunset and strolled along the beach after dinner hand-in-hand like they do in the films. All for 4 euros.

Thurs 19^th

We woke to a lovely morning at last and drove 41miles to Pont-Aven finding the aire eventually more by luck than judgement.  Silly Emily wanted us to go up a blocked off one-way street the wrong way! We were there by 11.00am so headed off down the hill in to the town and what happened next do you suppose? Yes, it started to rain again.  Pont-Aven is renowned for its’ artists quarter so there are loads of galleries to look round, as well as plenty of shops to duck in to until they close for lunch 12.30 – 2.00. We treated ourselves to a late lunch in a creperie in a water-mill and very nice it was too. Then we had to haul our dripping wet selves back up the hill to the van. We bumped in to a couple of Irish people from Yorkshire so had a wet chat with them, then went inside the van for the rest of the day and dried off.  By about 7.00pm the aire was full, we counted at least 30 vans, but most of them were French.  Obviously a popular spot.

Fri 20^th

Today we started heading back towards Cherbourg and drove all of 81 miles, but mainly on dual carriage-way roads, whereas up till now we have been on minor rural roads through the villages which is much more interesting. We had planned on a couple of nights at a campsite – Merlin the Enchanted at Loyat and arrived at 12.00 just as the lady was going off to lunch.  She turned out to be English and told us to pitch ourselves up and she would see us later.  So we got settled and then sat out in the sun to have some lunch.  Later we went for a stroll around the village and picked out the houses we would like to buy! Back for a cuppa, then showers, then dinner outside as it was so pleasant.  Let’s hope we get a few more days like this.

Sat 21^st

What a beautiful day! We did a bit of washing and hung it out, then set off for a walk around the Lac au Duc. It is actually 9.3 miles all the way round, but we only managed 6, 3 there and 3 back. It was hot, sunny, we were in and out of woods and along boardwalks at the edge of the lake.  We saw herons, coots, loads of butterflies and also otters. We only met a few other walkers and cyclists along the way, most of the time it was just us with the peace and quiet. We got back around 3.00pm exhausted so just chilled out for the rest of the day reading and sorting out where to go next.

 

Sun 22^nd

Very misty first thing, but soon brightened up. We could only manage an amble up in to the village today to take some photos, then back to sit in the sun for the rest of the day. We have now been joined by an Irish couple from London, as well as a couple from Guernsey. A few long-term residents have been to speak to us.  Apparently some live here all the year round in the mobile homes, whereas some only rent them for part of the year. It is very pleasant, rural and quiet, but I am not sure what we would do with ourselves if we were here all the time.

Mon 23rd

A bit misty again to start, but it was lifting when we left around 10.00am.  We drove 47 miles to Lanvally, just across the river from Dinan. We had discovered the aire in Dinan itself below the viaduct, was very expensive, but had been told that this one in Lanvallay was within walking distance and free. There were only 5 slots, but as we were the first to arrive, it did not matter.  We had stopped briefly for some foodie bits on the way, so had an early lunch and then put our walking feet on.  It was very hot by now but luckily downhill all the way to the viaduct and across in to the town of Dinan.  It was very, very high and with an excelent view, but Brian was not at all comfortable with it.  Just as well we had not had to drive over it! We spent a few hours meandering around the medeval city, up and down tiny cobbled streets, along with tourists of all nationalities.  Eventually, we needed a rest so found an ice-cream shop to sit outside of and watch the world go by for a while. Then we headed off down towards the port area....it was very,very steep and cobbled and we had to hang on to each other tightly.  At the bottom we managed to find a seat by the river for a while to ease our trembling legs.  Then we had to start the climb back up the other side.   Luckily this was up a proper road with a pavement, but even so we had to stop every 10 minutes to get our breaths back.  We are definitely not very fit! We finally got back to the van about 5.00pm and collapsed having walked about 6 miles up & down hills.
We just had salad for tea as neither of us felt capable of cooking a meal. Later we had company, a French and a Belgian van joined us on the aire.

Tues 24th

Another beautiful hot sunny day.  We only drove 30 miles to Pontorson to a campsite to use our last 2 Camping Cheques, all the other sites on our route now are closed for the winter. We arrived by lunchtime, so ae out on the terrace and then stayed there for the rest of the afternoon reading and dozing.
We are going to have a rest day tomorrow and then head back up the Cotentin Peninsula in easy stages in order to be back at Cherbourg by next Tuesday to catch the ferry.

We have just added some more photos in to the web album.....
https://picasaweb.google.com/116964844779024088703/MoreFranceAutumnTripPhotos?authkey=Gv1sRgCLT849iSkYS18QE&noredirect=1